Site Selection

Try to select a site which has at least 6 hours of sunshine each day. Vegetables grown in shady locations usually have poorer quality and lower yields. A space along a garage or house can be useful, and rental plots in community gardens often are available. Garden sites which have had a sod cover or been grown in weeds for several years should be turned the fall preceding planting to reduce spring weed growth.

Preparation

Decide which vegetables you want in your garden. Learn how much space they will need and how many seeds or plants are necessary (see Table 1). Then plan your garden on paper, so that when it is time to plant, you will know exactly what to do .

Gather gardening materials early. Secure a spade or shovel, rake, hoe, garden hose or sprinkling can, string, stakes (both large and small), fertilizer, and the desired seeds and plants.

If possible, turn the soil in the fall. If not, then rototill, spade, or plow the area to a depth of 6-8 inches as early in the spring as the soil is workable. Do not turn soil when it is wet, because it will remain hard and lumpy all season. After soil has dried, remove all sod clumps, sticks, stones, and other debris, and level the area with a rake.

Just before you level the soil for the last time, spread a balanced analysis fertilizer such as 10-10-10 evenly over the garden area. Use 3-4 pounds per 100 square feet (10 ft. x 10 ft.) and rake it in. For very small beds, use 3-4 teaspoons of fertilizer per square foot.

Plastic mulch, like other mulches, will prevent weed growth and conserve soil moisture. Additionally, black plastic will speed up warming of the soil, which is desirable for warm season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and vine crops. The plastic must be spread out and anchored down along the edges before planting time. Holes are then cut through the plastic for planting either seed or transplants.

Cool season crops are better served by applying an organic-type mulch after the soil has warmed in early summer. Summer mulch will help control weeds, conserve soil moisture, and lower soil temperature.

Planting

For best production, plant vegetables at the proper time, i.e. cool season crops early and warm season crops after danger of frost is passed. Mark out seed and transplant rows with stakes so that they are as evenly spaced as possible. This not only looks better, but it also allows easier maintenance.

While many crops can be directly seeded into the ground, some crops are best started as transplants or from other plant parts (see Table 1 for recommendations). Transplanting gives those crops which require a longer growing period a head start on the season.

Seeds

To prepare seed furrows, mark out each row with twine tied tightly between two end stakes. Open the furrow to the proper depth with a hoe, and sow the seeds, trying to space properly. Follow directions for seeding found on most seed packets.

Do not sow seeds too deeply or they may not germinate. Place carrots, radishes, and lettuce no deeper than 1/4 inch. Large seeds such as peas, beans, and cucumbers can be sown 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep. Vine crops can be planted six seeds in a cluster or hill and then later thinned to four plants per hill.

Cover the seeds and lightly press the soil down with your hands or the rake. Be sure to label the rows. Thin seed rows to their proper spacing after the plants are 1-2 inches tall. Thin the plants with scissors rather than pulling them so you won’t disturb the other plants. Use the thinnings for salads.

Transplants

Secure sturdy transplants of recommended cultivars from a reputable garden supplier. Plant at proper distances, and set all plants at the same level they were growing in the pot. If peat pots are used, be sure to break down the edges and bottoms of the pots to allow root development. All other pots should be removed before planting. Lightly firm the soil around the transplants and water in, using a soluble plant food solution if possible. Be sure to keep transplants well watered and protected from strong winds or bright sun until they are well established. Stakes or cages for plant support should be set at planting time.

Space Saving Techniques

Interplanting. Alternate rows with a fast and slow-growing crop. When the fast crop is removed, the row spacing widens to allow ample space for the slower crop. For example, plant radishes, green onions, spinach, or lettuce between rows of cabbage, corn, Brussels sprouts, and broccoli.

Intercropping. Sow a fast and a slow growing type of seed together. For example, sow radishes and carrots together. When the radishes are harvested, then the carrots will be automatically thinned.

Succession planting. As soon as one crop is finished, plant another. For example, when cool-season crops such as lettuce, spinach, radish, and peas are harvested, replant with beans, beets, or turnips.

Band planting. Plant crops in bands of double or triple rows instead of single rows where practical. Where mechanical equipment is not being used, wide paths between rows waste valuable space. Smaller crops such as lettuce, spinach, beets, and radishes are especially suited to band planting (see Table 2 for approximate spacings).

Short row planting. Don’t plant more than you will be able to use at one time, e.g. planting a long row of lettuce or two dozen cabbage plants which you can’t possibly use at once. In small plot gardening, it is advisable to plant only the amount needed.

Vertical training. Many vegetables, including peas, pole beans, cucumbers, squash, melons, and tomatoes, will naturally climb a support or can be trained to grow upwards, leaving more ground space for other crops. Support structures include cages, stakes, trellises, strings, teepees, chicken wire, or existing fences let your imagination take over!

Mini Gardening. Vegetable breeders have been emphasizing smaller plants for container and small plot gardening. Although some of the dwarf or mini plants produce smaller fruits, often a greater number of fruits are produced, yielding a good total harvest. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and peas are just a few examples from the mini ranks. Some new cultivars of vegetables such as tomatoes and cucumbers have compact, trailing growth habits ideal for growing in hanging baskets.

Summer Care

Supplement natural rainfall to supply 1 inch of water per week. Use soaker hoses, trickle irrigation tubes, or sprinklers to soak the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches. Watering by hand from a hose seldom supplies a thorough watering and may damage soil structure as well. Frequent light sprinkling encourages shallow root development, making plants more susceptible to drought.

Be sure to remove all weeds. Weeds can be easily pulled when they are small, while larger weeds require a hoe. Use a shaving stroke so as not to dig more than 1/4-1/2 inch deep. Be careful not to injure crop roots or shoots. You do not have to loosen the soil if there are no weeds.

Where plastic mulch is not used, apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic or other summer mulch to help conserve soil moisture, control weeds, and lower soil temperatures. Organic mulch can then be turned under and mixed with the soil in the fall. Plastic mulch must be removed at the end of the season.

Check vegetables daily to detect and remedy insect and disease problems promptly. Remember that healthy, vigorously growing plants are usually much less subject to attack, but that certain vegetables are just naturally more vulnerable than others. For instance, such vegetables as cucumbers, melons, and cabbage are quite consistently pest-prone. Consult your local county Extension office or garden supplier for recommended control measures.

Harvesting

The proper time to harvest vegetables is not necessarily when they are at their largest stage. Some vegetables produce tough fibers or off-flavors as they mature. Learn the optimum harvest stage for all of the vegetables you’ve planted. Proper harvesting ensures that the vegetables will be enjoyed at their best, whether they are to be eaten fresh or stored, canned, or frozen for later use (see Table 3 for suggested uses).